Friday, February 20, 2015

Chapter 3 - 1961 Growing Up in the Shadow of Mt. Tom

Chapter 3 Version 3

1961

Boys explore – that’s just what they do. There is no reason – no goal – no end point. They just can’t help it.

There are fields of corn, grass and weeds where butterflies and worms can be caught. There are ponds where frogs and pollywogs hide in green slime. There are streams where trout are too sly to be caught. Crayfish inhabit the banks of the stream and can be found if a net can sift through the roots of the plants that love being at the water’s edge.

With a mountain in your backyard and a major river only a bike ride down East Street, there were recreational choices some boys can only dream of but here they were part of life.

“Mom, I am going up the mountain – see you later” and a sunny summer day was started with choices galore. Mount Tom was not technically a mountain but it was a large enough hill to qualify as a mountain in a child’s mind. Whiting’s Peak had cliffs of hard angular volcanic rock and a TV tower if you wanted to go all the way to the end of the trail. The cliffs were made of purple basalt that filled a rift valley caused by continental drift 200 million years ago. The basalt stretches in a thin line from the Vermont border to New Haven on Long Island Sound. The volcanic rock weathers into a reddish brown color that is particularly pleasing to view with a crisp blue sky and the green of the forest. Stories of rattlesnake encounters on the cliffs made children wary but not wary enough to avoid hiking on the cliffs. There were some nature exhibits with rattlesnakes that were caught locally. If the wind was blowing from the west which was not often, it encountered the cliffs and an updraft was formed. A child could toss out a substantial log and the wind would blow it quickly over the child’s head and it would land some distance behind. The fun outweighed the danger – it always does. Elsewhere on the Mt. Tom Range, Goat’s Peak had a rusty metal observation tower with a sweeping view both north to Vermont and south to Springfield and Connecticut. There were also streams with salamanders and Lake Bray was plowed in the winter for ice-skating. Today the trek would be to the east end of the Mt. Tom Range to Mt. Nonotuck.

The attraction at Mt. Nonotuck was two-fold. First were the foundation ruins of an old resort at the summit. The story passed down from child to child was that it burned down when the proprietor of the resort was disposing of the carcass of a horse by burning it and the fire got out of control. The resort burned down to the foundation and was never rebuilt. The rocks used in the foundation looked to be locally sourced to avoid the cost of getting the building materials up to the top of the “hill”. The foundation was built to last and was about three feet thick so it was good to climb on and had some arched window holes and door openings where you could imagine Indians were peering in from the other side.

And secondly there was the view to the north. The Connecticut River flowed down between Vermont and New Hampshire and into Massachusetts looking for a gap in the range so that it could continue its passage south past Hartford to Long Island Sound. That gap was right below Mt. Nonotuck where the old village of Mt. Tom was located between Mt. Nonotuck and Mount Holyoke. The village was high up enough to avoid the yearly flood that made settlement on the flood plain hazardous. The flooding provided the best and arguably the only good farmland in Massachusetts. The valley was dotted with white patches of cheese cloth covered fields of shade tobacco next to red barns with vertically hinged boards for ventilation when the tobacco was hung inside for curing. The shade tobacco was used exclusively for the wrappers of fine cigars and provided summer employment for high school age students.

Until 1840, the Connecticut River made a meander in the shape of an ox bow – a U-shaped piece of wood that went over an oxen’s neck so that it could pull heavy loads. In 1836 Thomas Cole completed the famous painting of the oxbow that hangs in the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art  from the top of Mount Holyoke looking west. But four years later, a major flood cut a new channel directly into the water gap at Mt. Tom. The oxbow became a pond fed by the Mill River passing west of downtown Northampton and the Manhan River which flowed east through Easthampton with the excess water in the Oxbow going into the Connecticut River at Mt. Tom village. The Oxbow made an ideal fishing and frogging spot for young anglers to hone their skills. The Connecticut River itself offered some good catfishing for the more adventurous. By the 1960’s Mass Audubon’s Arcadia Wildlife Sanctuary included some animal and bird exhibits near where the Mill River entered the Oxbow. The Audubon Sanctuary also hosted a 4H camera club for junior high school aged children that John joined with his plastic Kodak Brownie camera. All of this could be seen from a bird’s eye view from the top of Mt. Nonotuck. The sunsets were probably spectacular from that vantage point west to the Berkshire Hills but it was at least an hour’s walk back home and you don’t want to do that in the dark.

But exploring was not limited to the outdoors.

One morning John was staring inside a shoebox he found on the top shelf of the closet he shared with his parents. Pictures, papers coins and a sailor hat were overlooked as he reached inside to pick up a pewter colored item that could have been mistaken for a rocket. But he knew what it was. The end was pointy and heavy. No, you are not going to put this into a six shooter. This was a serious bullet. This was a war bullet. There were some smaller bullets too. These were copper colored with rounded tips. These were the kind of bullets Davy Crockett used, he concluded as he reached for the metal object in the leather covering.



There was a snap to keep it from falling out of its leather holder. He picked up the object by the handle and knew the feel of the lacquered leather grip. The same feel as the Estwing hammer handle but this was lighter than a hammer. He snapped open the short leather strap that held it in. Slowly he drew it out. Running his hand down the top of it, he came to the end where the blade came to a point. Turning the blade sharp side up, he ran his finger over the blade at a 90 degree angle to test its sharpness just as had done so many times with his pocketknife. It was sharp – very sharp. He put the blade back into its leather sheath and then back into the shoebox with the bullets. But before he put the shoebox back onto the closet shelf, John slid his hand inside the shoebox and pulled out the sailor’s hat. It fit. Off he went looking good in his newly found white hat.

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